12 Amazing Benefits of Microneedling That Will Transform Your Skin
One of the hottest trends in skin care right now is microneedling. It is probably the most popular facial treatment I do at the medical spa. I really can’t say a bad thing about this procedure. It is minimally invasive with proven and significant results, even with just one treatment.
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What is Microneedling?
Microneedling or Collagen Induction Therapy is a treatment where the skin is punctured repeatedly with tiny, sterile needles that create micro-injuries without abrading the top layer of skin. These micro-injuries increase the absorption of nutrients in topical skin care products and stimulate collagen production.
Microneedling stimulates the release of growth factors beneficial for collagen and elastin production, improves melanin distribution for even-toned skin, and improves barrier defense. And it provides better product penetration. Therapeutic ingredients in your topical serums and creams will reach the skin cells that lie on the deeper levels instead of just sitting on top of the skin affecting only the outer layer. This means better absorption and better results. Studies show up to 7 percent of skin creams are absorbed without needling and there is up to 80 percent more absorption with microneedling.
12 Amazing Benefits of Microneedling
1. Fills in Wrinkles and fine lines
2. Plumps up lips
3. Shrinks Pores
4. Reduces acne breakouts
5. Softens scars
6. Reduces redness from breakouts or skin trauma
7. Softens stretch marks
8. Fades dark spots or hyperpigmentation
9. Restores Hair loss
10. Age prevention
11. Thicker and Tighter Skin
12. Restored Elasticity
The great thing about microneedling is you have the option to do it at home. The microneedling treatment at the med spa is going to be more therapeutic, but you can get great results by doing home derma rolling too. Or if you do a professional treatment at the spa, you can still use your personal derma roller at home to maintain your results.
I use the SkinPen® by Bellus Medical at the med spa. The main difference between a professional microneedling session and home derma rolling is there is more control of needle depth penetration and rate of penetration with a professional device. Also, the needles on the SkinPen® enter the skin vertically unlike at an angle with a derma roller. But both professional microneedling and derma rolling can be beneficial to your skin.
I have used the SkinPen® on myself as well as use my derma roller at home. I do feel like I see better results with the professional treatments. But if you don’t have the time or money to get it done at the spa, a derma roller works great too. You will still see awesome results, you may just have to do more treatments more frequently, depending on what needle depth you use, with the derma roller.
How To Use a Derma Roller at Home.
You can purchase a derma roller that is relatively inexpensive online. I purchased both of mine on Amazon for around $10. The different rollers are classified by their needle length. They range from 0.2 mm to 2.0 mm. Below you can decide which roller is best for you by seeing the benefits of each needle length and which one best addresses your skin concerns.
How to choose the right needle size.
1. 0.2 mm Roller
Hair Regeneration and Regrowth
2. 0.25 mm
Hair Regeneration, Fine Lines
3. 0.5 mm
Hair Regeneration, Fine Lines, Lite Wrinkles, Shrinks Pores, Reduces Pigmentation
4. 0.75 mm
Softens Wrinkles, Shrinks Pores, Reduces Pigmentation, Lightens Acne Scars
5. 1.0 mm
Wrinkles, Shrinks Pores, Pigmentation, Acne Scars, Cellulite, Stretch Marks
6. 1.5 mm
Cellulite, Stretch Marks, Deep Scars
7. 2.0 mm
Cellulite, Stretch Marks, Deep Scars
Needling can cause some discomfort, so if you decide to use a roller that is above 1.0 mm you can always purchase a numbing agent online or at your local drug store to make it more comfortable.
Step by Step Instructions for Using Your Derma Roller at Home
1. Cleanse
Cleanse your skin with a cleanser that is appropriate for your skin type. I recommend a foaming cleanser because you want all makeup and oils removed from your skin.
2. Numb
You probably don’t need to numb your skin if you are using a 1.0 mm needle length or shorter. But if you do decide you want to use a topical numbing agent you can purchase one at your local pharmacy or drug store. Leave it on for at least 15-20 minutes before your derma rolling treatment then wash and rinse it off completely.
3. Derma Rolling
Use moderate pressure when applying the roller to your skin. The derma roller is more effective when your skin is pulled tight. Do several passes in three different directions: a vertical direction, horizontal, then diagonal back and forth. You want to see some pink or redness to the skin as this is the endpoint, and your treatment is being effective.
4. Skin Care
Apply a vitamin c serum or anti-aging serum with peptides, growth factors, or hyaluronic acid. Make sure the serum does not contain any alpha-hydroxy acids or retinoids. You could apply a skin lightening cream if hyperpigmentation is a skin concern. Then follow with a gentle moisturizer. You have made tiny channels in your skin, so your topical serums and creams will be better absorbed after derma rolling and therefore be more effective in getting the results you want. Studies show ingredient absorption is boosted by 90% after microneedling. But I want to stress do not use serums if you have sensitive skin. Just use a soothing moisturizer, as some serums may cause irritation. You could do a small test patch with a serum if you are worried about having a bad reaction.
Gently clean your derma roller after every use with rubbing alcohol. Sanitizing your device is extremely important because the needles are entering the skin.
As far as frequency of use when it comes to home derma rolling, if you have a 0.2 – 0.5 mm roller you can use it once a week. If your roller is 0.75 mm or above, only use it once a month. If you are using a more aggressive needle length, you need to give your skin time to rejuvenate and regenerate collagen.
Do not use a derma roller if you have any of the following: active acne breakouts, any active skin infections, blood clotting problems, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, proneness to keloid scarring, and don’t go over raised moles or warts.
A little fun-fact: you can plump up your lips and lip lines with derma rolling. I’m in my forties and the last couple of years have noticed those annoying vertical lip lines forming above my upper lip. My lips are also unfortunately shrinking. But when I use my 0.5 mm derma roller lightly and directly over and above my lips I have seen great results. I have noticed plumper and healthier looking lips and quickly! People ask if I have gotten lip injections however, I have never gotten them. But I stress only using it once a week and gently when going directly over the lips because this is very sensitive skin.
You can click on the images below to shop for home derma rollers
.25 mm .5 mm 1.0 mm
What to expect with Professional Microneedling at The Med Spa
If you are doing derma rolling at home, do not be too aggressive. If you are unsure just go see a professional and have it done. It’s worth spending the extra money instead of risking damaging your skin.
Every spa or doctor’s office may be a little different, but I will share with you our protocol from the med spa where I work. Clients can buy single treatments or a package of three spaced 4-6 weeks apart. The beauty of the microneedling treatment is you will see results or improvement with one session. The average cost of a single professional treatment can be anywhere from $200 to $700 depending on what area you treat and the area in which you live.
The same contraindications I mentioned above with home derma rolling applies to the professional treatment.
My Microneedling Protocol at the Med Spa with SkinPen®
1. Cleanse Skin & Take Before and After Pictures
I like to use a foaming cleanser on my clients’ skin to remove all oils and makeup. Then if the client wants photos for before and after comparison, I will take their pictures before numbing cream is applied.
2. Apply Numbing Agent
We use a topical numbing cream and leave it on 15 -20 minutes prior to the microneedling treatment. We use a formulation that consists of benzocaine, lidocaine, and tetracaine. Next, the numbing cream is removed by cleansing a second time making sure the skin is free of any numbing residue and dry.
3. Gel
Next, a water-based gel is applied to the area being treated that allows the pen to freely glide across the skin. A treatment serum such as growth factors, bleaching cream, or PRP (platelet-rich plasma that is taken from your blood.) Clients get better results and usually less redness when some of these special serums are applied then driven into the skin with the microneedling device.
4. Microneedle
When doing the microneedling service, I like to move the pen in a vertical and horizontal then diagonal or circular motion over the skin. Several passes across the area are done. Any blood caused from the tiny needle sticks is then tissued off with wet cotton.
5. Apply Hydrating Gel and Send Gel Home with them.
After the microneedling is complete and the skin is wiped clean, I apply a hydrating gel that calms, cools, and moisturizes the skin. I send the gel home with the client and instruct them to apply it every few hours because the skin tends to feel tight and dry a couple days after the treatment. I also recommend using a hyaluronic acid serum and gentle moisturizer at home afterward. Sometimes I also apply a treatment serum after the microneedling procedure is done and the skin is very receptive to product, due to the tiny channels created by the pen. Like I mentioned above, doing this enhances the client’s results and may reduce redness.
What Can You Expect Next After a Professional Treatment?
Everybody’s skin type and how they react or respond to the professional microneedling can be different, so please don’t take the following as a guarantee on how your skin will respond.
Most people will experience redness, tightness, and dryness for 3-5 days after the procedure, depending on how aggressive the settings were used by the skin care practitioner. Although rare, some clients may see mild swelling and/or bruising. All of this is temporary though. After 24 hours you can wear makeup. I recommend a mineral makeup as it is healthy for the skin.
You definitely want to avoid the direct sun at least one to two weeks after the treatment or at least until any redness or irritation has left your skin. Also, avoid any retinoid or glycolic products until all the redness is gone.
You will most likely see an improvement in skin tone and texture a week after the microneedling procedure. It may take 4-6 weeks before you see noticeable changes with hyperpigmentation, deeper wrinkles, and scarring. And sometimes it’s difficult to see those improvements when you see your own face every day – that is why I recommend doing before and after pictures.
A few clients will sometimes say to me that they aren’t seeing huge changes in their skin but when they look at their before and after photos, they are like “wow!” A lot of them say their friends and family are saying how good their skin looks, and I think that’s an awesome testament to how good microneedling works if others are noticing!
Why is Professional Microneedling a Good Alternative to more Ablative Laser Resurfacing?
• Wound healing is possible without inflammation. Microneedling causes wounds and then repair and collagen production under the skin instead of removing outer layers of the skin.
• Ablative treatment does not thicken the epidermis like the microneedling.
• There is less risk of scarring and infection with microneedling and less downtime.
Don’t get me wrong, I believe some ablative treatments are great but they’re not for everyone. Skin pen offers an effective alternative to someone who doesn’t want an invasive procedure done. And is very effective for multiple skin concerns.
Microneedling is one of my favorite treatments to perform because it produces real results. I have done hundreds of these treatments and can honestly say I have never had a disappointed client. Results vary though. Every person and skin type are different so please keep realistic explanations that your skin care provider should educate you on.
Disclaimer
The content of this article is for informational purposes only and should not be construed as medical advice. Please see a dermatologist if you have questions about your skin condition.
