1. Determine Correct Lash Weight

If you want your client to get great lash retention, make sure you are using the correct lash extension weight and thickness. When applying the lash extension to your client’s natural lash, make sure the natural lash can sustain the weight of the lash extension. Generally speaking, a client’s natural eyelash can only take a maximum of 1.5 times the weight of the lash.

Typically, clients who are over 50 have thinner lashes than younger clients. And Asian clients usually have a narrower lash than other ethnicities. Sometimes people with lighter hair and skin may have thinner lashes as well.

It is recommended to use a lash extension with a diameter of 0.10-0.15mm for these types of clients. Clients with stronger, thicker natural eyelashes can usually handle a 0.15-0.20mm extension.

You should always closely inspect your customer’s natural lashes, regardless of their age or ethnicity to determine what thickness and weight is suitable for them.

 

2. Teach Your Client Appropriate Aftercare

It is vital you stress the importance of good aftercare to your client if they are going to have good retention. Make sure the client does not get their lashes wet for 1-2 days after their service. Tell them to avoid steam and products containing oils around the eyes. They also need to be gentle when cleaning and brushing their extensions.

 

3. Prep the Natural Lash

For good lash retention, prime the lashes before you start applying the extensions. Even after they are clean, a good primer takes off any residual soap product, proteins, and oil. Also, an ingredient in primer called chelates works with acrylates in glue like magnet to reinforce the bond.

 

 

4. Use a Good Amount of Glue

There is a lot of concern over using too much lash adhesive, but the lash tech needs to make sure they are using enough glue to form a circle around the entire lash extension. Use a scooping motion when dipping the extension into the adhesive. Also, when you need more glue, start a new drop and try not to place it too close to the old glue drop. Lack of glue means poor retention.

 

5. Length

When deciding what the best lash extension length to apply, you want to pay attention to the length of the natural lash. Make sure the length of the extension is not too long and cumbersome for the natural eyelash. A general rule of thumb is to not place a lash extension that is longer than 3mm past the natural lash. If the extension is too long and heavy for the natural lashes this will cause strain on the follicle and may cause them to become sparse.

 

6. Application

When applying the eyelash extension, try attaching it underneath or on the side of the natural lash. These points of placement tend to have better retention. Also try to achieve great, full coverage. Master good isolation and lash every natural eyelash, covering all of the lashes.

 

7. End the Service with a Good Bonder or Sealant

Lashing all these years, I have found it so important to apply a superbonder or sealant to the eyelash extensions once the set is complete. Apply a generous amount to the base and dry thoroughly with a small fan. A superbonder and sealant will instantly cure the adhesive, make the lash extensions waterproof, and rid the fumes from the glue.

 

8. Consider the Base of the Lash Extension

If your client is having retention issues, try using a flat lash extension or one with a softer curl like a B or C curl. These types of extensions have a longer base so more of the extension will sit on the natural lash.